Integrating architecture techniques into modern-day building construction enables designers to produce functional, lightweight and long-term results – examples being the Olympic Stadium in Munich, Louvre Abu Dhabi and Swiss Tech Convention Center as just some.
Different weaving effects and structures are created through the interlacing of yarns; lengthwise yarns are known as warp; crosswise ones as weft.
Basic Weaving
Weaving is one of the oldest textile arts, as well as one of the most versatile and adaptable textile crafts. The technique involves interlacing threads to produce fabric made of spun fiber on either a simple mechanical loom or more complex electronic one called a loom. Woven fabric offers structural stability compared to knitted or crocheted cloth; its structures won’t unravel quickly like knitted cloth does and it can easily be altered into textures or patterns like plaid or tartan patterns or intricate tapestries designs.
How the warp and weft threads interweave is what dictates how fabric looks, with weave types including plain weaves, twill weaves, satin/sateen weaves and many other variants being the foundation for fabric appearance. Each variant offers its own set of effects ranging from stripe patterns, rib effects diagonal/zigzag effects 3D effects cellular-like effects and more – original diagrams supporting each type of weave are provided to support its use.
While weaving may appear complicated, it’s actually quite straightforward and an ideal hobby for all ages. The process of weaving can be both relaxing and meditative while increasing focus, concentration, hand-eye coordination, dexterity and focus – in fact occupational therapy programs regularly incorporate weaving to assist those suffering from depression, anxiety or other mental health conditions.
There are various techniques for weaving depending on your materials and available looms. A frame loom is one of the simplest types, often smaller in size and featuring an integral rigid heddle to make lifting and lowering yarn easier when weaving – ideal for creating small items such as scarves, shawls and decorative pieces.
Jacquard looms are more complex than frame or rigid heddle looms, featuring an advanced mechanism which enables users to weave intricate designs. Jacquards are typically preferred by professional weavers due to their intricate nature;
As part of their path towards Industry 4.0, weaving technology manufacturers must optimize production processes and create innovative woven products for apparel, home textiles and technical textiles. Furthermore, manufacturers must address sustainability issues while creating an integrated digital fabric formation process from upstream yarn manufacturing through to finishing and final product formation using software integration of upstream and downstream operations and the development of automation solutions.
Intermediate Weaving
Beginning from the basics, participants will continue their studies of patterning techniques used by indigenous weavers in South America. We will experiment with various yarns in both warp and weft threadings, tieups and treadlings, tieups and treadlings in order to explore texture’s effect on pattern and color in your finished fabric. This workshop is tailored for experienced weavers who already know how to read a draft and dress their looms; Laverne Waddington studied under traditional Bolivian weavers before teaching weaving classes using simple backstrap looms since 1996; she published two books entitled Adventures in Warp-Faced Pick-Up Patterns and More Adventures in Warp-Faced Pickup Patterning respectively.
At ITMA 2019, machine manufacturers displayed technologies with high levels of digitization that allowed them to integrate big data related to production and fabric quality for optimal automation levels. A company with machinery from multiple vendors cannot implement this system without investing heavily and creating an industry standard to integrate all machines, which is a monumental task in itself.
Jakob Muller Group of Switzerland’s NFM MDW narrow weaving machine demonstrates this trend by producing electrically conductive yarns to weave narrow fabrics containing them for antifraud identification purposes and create wireless smart labels with integrated circuits for fraud identification purposes. As an innovative prototype it could potentially be extended into fiber reinforced composites to provide multidirectional performance enhancement in directions other than warp and weft directions.
Toyota Industries Corp of Japan also brought their JAT 910 air jet series machines to ITMA 2018, featuring highly automated technology with high levels of digitization. Their user-friendly operating panel provides production overview and shortens changeover times while creating 3D wide preforms of fiber-reinforced composites by laying multidirectional high-performance wefts.
ITMA 2018 featured numerous exhibitors displaying textile 3D structures used for applications including spacer, distance, stitched and unstitched double cloths and ceramic ballistic protection. To date, creating these structures requires complex and laborious processes involving stacking 2D woven fabrics; hence the necessity of developing more advanced digital platforms in order to reach Industry 4.0.
Advanced Weaving
Woven fabrics are one of the primary materials used across various fields, spanning fashion and domestic textiles to high-performance technical applications. Weaving is an intriguing process in which one set of warp yarns (lengthwise threads) interlacing with another set of weft yarns (cross-wise threads) to produce two- or three-dimensional structures.
At first glance, woven fabrics appear uniform and faultless; however, further examination reveals irregularities such as local crimp differences between warp and weft threads, bow of weft threads, different frequencies and sizes of interlacing points, openings at interlacing points as well as uneven spacing of warp and weft threads – which can lead to defects in finished products and must be addressed with strategies to increase uniformity at weaving machines.
This chapter discusses different weaving techniques such as tapestry weaving, Ikat weaving and the AVL computer loom. Furthermore, different threading methods for complex cross section woven patterns will also be covered in depth.
Advanced weaves for high-performance fabrics are becoming an important tool in meeting stringent technical requirements for composite materials, particularly those made of 3D orthogonal structures formed via innovative dobby and Jacquard shedding systems. This chapter offers an overview of their advantages as well as their various applications.
Designers and product engineers will find this discussion of the development steps for these structures particularly informative, including designing the weave structure, calculating yarn tension required to form desired 3D shape, selecting appropriate warp and weft threads as well as final thread selection for warp/weft formation.
Fiberworks, a software program used for designing fabric weave plans and drafts, can assist designers with developing these plans. Fiberworks features flexible modes for editing threading, tieup, treadling, liftplan, colour sequences and liftplan for creating weave plans which meet specific fabric structure requirements. There is a free version as well as the premium Fiberworks Silver version available.
Finishing
Weaving is the fascinating art of intertwining two separate sets of threads into fabric. This process, known as weaving, requires interweaving two threads called the warp and weft on a loom to produce fabric used for various applications ranging from clothing to home textiles.
Weaving can be a wonderful way to express your creativity and craft beautiful pieces using natural materials while reinvigorating ancient techniques handed down through generations.
Tradition weaving techniques are enjoying renewed appreciation among those committed to sustainability and slow fashion. Handwoven textiles provide a welcome respite from fast fashion as they require time, effort and quality over quantity.
Reviving ancient weaving techniques also encourages weavers to be conscious about how they use resources and explore their creativity to the fullest extent. Repurposing yarns and waste materials as an environmental step towards sustainability. Furthermore, weaving allows weavers to produce unique patterns and textures not found in mass-produced fabric lines.
There are various weaving techniques that can be employed to craft fabrics with various colors, designs and structures. Examples include plain weave, twill weave, basket weave and tapestry weave – each providing different textures and designs that can be integrated into a finished piece such as pinstripe and chalk stripes on double cloth weave patterns, checkered patterns produced from double cloth weave designs or intricate embroidery-inspired motifs on tapestry weave fabrics.
Dobby weaving can create an eye-catching and eye-catching weave by selectively raising or depressing certain warp threads with a dobby card, creating small designs/geometric patterns in fabric. You can also achieve a broken irregular pebbled look using a moss crepe weave technique; this requires high twist yarns as well as special weaving methods in order to produce this effect.